As the air turns crisp and the light shifts, a new rhythm emerges in the cellar. Here is a curated selection for the transitional months, by Tongai Charie, Senior Sommelier at Upper Union.
Autumn in South Africa is a study in contrasts. The days still hold the last warmth of summer, while the evenings call for something with more structure, spice and soul.
According to Tongai Charie, senior sommelier at Upper Union, we move away from the high-octane acidity of mid-summer quaffers and toward wines that offer depth, texture, and a true sense of place as the seasons turn.
To get us started on considerations for our dining experiences in the lead-up to winter, he has selected a trio of boutique releases that fill glasses and spark conversations.
Wine 1 – Pieter Ferreira ‘Birdsong’ Brut 2023: The benchmark for Cap Classique precision
There is perhaps no name more synonymous with South African sparkling than Pieter Ferreira, in Charie’s opinion.
“With his Birdsong project, ‘Bubbles’ Ferreira delivers a Cap Classique that feels intimate and artisanal. A masterful blend of 71% Chardonnay and 29% Pinot Noir, it spent 39 months on the lees.”
The nose shows delicate citrus blossom and crisp green apple, while the palate deepens into wild strawberry with a persistent, creamy brioche finish.
“This isn’t just an aperitif; it’s a statement. Its structural integrity allows it to stand up to richer autumnal hors d’oeuvres.”
Price: From R425
Wine 2 – Thierry Haberer ‘Alma’ White 2020: A masterclass in purity
Thierry Haberer brings an uncompromising French sensibility to the Western Cape.
According to the sommelier, this 2020 Alma Chardonnay defies the “oak bomb” stereotype, offering instead a focused expression of pure, unadulterated fruit.
“Made from 100% Chardonnay, the 2020 vintage is entering a beautiful phase of tertiary complexity. Expect nectarine and white peach, supported by a flinty mineral backbone. It is silky, precise, and best enjoyed in a larger glass. This is a gastronomic white – one that needs food, time, and attention. Ideal for those who find standard Chardonnays too heavy but still crave a luxurious, full-bodied mouthfeel.”
Price: R315
Wine 3 – Kromtak Grenache Noir 2022: Vibrant, spicy, and perfectly timed for the chill
Part of Arno Smith’s “Artist Selection,” the Kromtak Grenache is the quintessential autumn red.
“It offers the warming spice suited to cooler nights without the aggressive tannins that can overshadow a seasonal meal. A pure Grenache Noir, the 2022 vintage shows remarkable aromatic clarity: crunchy pomegranate, macerated black cherries, and a distinct spicy undertone reminiscent of dried fynbos,” said Charie.
He describes this wine as supple, refined, and wonderfully approachable.
“Grenache is the ultimate bridge wine – weighty enough for a braai or roast, yet elegant enough to stay light on its feet.”
Price: R350
He shares a secret in parting, reminding us that the trick to autumn wine-drinking is texture.
“Whether it’s the fine mousse of the Birdsong, the silkiness of the Alma, or the supple spice of the Kromtak, these wines reward those who take the time to let them breathe. Don’t rush the pour – let the season settle in the glass.”
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