When most of us think Hermanus, we only think whales. Wrong – because although it is a famous whale-watching destination, which sees foreigners and South Africans flocking here in the winter, this town which hugs the Walker Bay coast in the Overberg region rocks for many reasons.
There’s the sea of course, but it’s got so much more on-the-go – from hikes, to wine farms, to good restaurants, shopping even.
I have a takkie fetish and I don’t need not even one more pair, but in the main shopping drag just off the waterfront in Hermanus, I managed to find a trendy brand I didn’t have from a surf shop and of course I bought them. There are plenty of bespoke shops to tempt visitors including art galleries.
I first came to know about Hermanus when I worked in Cape Town years ago and locals used to blame Hermanus holiday-home owners for the traffic on a Friday afternoon headed that way, but until then I hadn’t visited.
Well-heeled South Africans have holiday homes here and there are dozens of guesthouses and accommodation establishments to take your pick from.
Unless you have many millions to spend, property prices here have shot through the roof as it’s a very desirable town to live in. The municipality works, the pavements are clean, there’s no sign of urban decay – rather a noticeably well-maintained infrastructure.
Property agents say Hermanus has seen more younger generations of families relocating here and calling it their home. There are good schools, hospitals and amenities – all the hallmarks of a town that is desirable.
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Hermanus Boutique Guest House: A stay to remember
We spent two nights at the Hermanus Boutique Guest House overlooking the sea and it was crazy to see two groups of foreign tourists arrive in the late afternoon, head out for supper and leave after breakfast the next morning, something that happens a lot here, one manager said.
What a waste of all the super things to do here because you really need a few days to do Hermanus justice.
The location of Hermanus Boutique Guest House screams location, location, as it has a prime oceanside position across the road from the scenic coastal path and the famous Fick’s tidal pool cradled between rocks – providing a sheltered and safe place for families and children to swim.
It’s also a central location so that the area can be explored on foot. From our sea-facing patio, from early in the morning until sunset, there are an endless stream of walkers, hot-mommy joggers and cyclists who go by.
The Cliff Path, which you pick up directly opposite Hermanus Boutique Guest House, is a perfect option for a scenic stroll along the coastline, with the path hugging the cliffs for over 10km. This path facilitates walks from the New Harbour all the way to the other end of Hermanus, near the mouth of the Kleinrivier Lagoon.
It’s a vibey and chic place, the décor reflecting the mood here in Hermanus with coastal blues and sunshine yellow, flashes of turquoise, modern and bright.
There are 19 exquisitely appointed suites, catering for a variety of preference and budget, but the pièce de résistance has to be the honeymoon suite, not only because you can lie in bed and watch whales in season.
The layout is all about romance with an open-plan bedroom-bathroom (except for the loo, thank goodness), including a big tub with jacuzzi jets. If you fill it with bubble bath the foam floats over to the bed. The shower is big enough for two to share.
Hosts are especially friendly, making a real effort to find out what guests want to do and giving them ideas, making dinner reservations even.
Hermanus Boutique Guest House doesn’t do dinners for a good reason. Guests like to get out and about and there are plenty of restaurants in the bustling centre of town a 10-minute walk away. And it’s perfectly safe to walk.
Eat, explore, and enjoy the coastline
The old adage of eating breakfast like a king applies here because the meal is included in the rates and is quite something to behold. There are cereals, yoghurt, a fabulous selection of freshly peeled fruit, cheeses, cold meat and anything you might like to warm up with before you order a cooked meal.
The full-house here is a memorable meal with attention to detail – like perfect eggs – and I learnt their trick of threading edible flowers into a macaroni tube to make a plate of food next level. It’s little touches like this that earned the establishment their four stars.
The first night there we took an amble and found Rossis Italian Restaurant which serves a meaningful pizza. You can’t miss The Burgundy Restaurant, on the very edge of the bay and only a few metres away from Hermanus’ historic old harbour. They are open all day and you get to choose a spot on the outdoor terrace.
They say their chef still goes to the quayside to his seafood supplier, Whale Coast Fisheries, to choose the fresh fish of the day. Burgundy Restaurant sources their produce from the Hemel en Aarde Farmstall to keep it local. It’s casual here and we get to talk to a local retired couple who come here once a week for dinner. We discuss property prices with them and all hopes of living here are dashed.
Mandatory on a trip to Hermanus should be a visit to award-winning Bientang’s Cave Restaurant and Wine Bar on the shores of Walker Bay. It’s carved into the depths of a century-old cave and unforgettable. A steep flight of stairs takes one down to the restaurant area on the edge of the sea, with tables perched right on the rocks so that the sea splashes almost at your feet. In big tides or during storms, the rocks disappear under the water.
Our waitress said during peak season she clocked up 30 000 steps in a day’s work from the kitchen down to the rocks. During whale-watching season, you will get 100m away from the massive mammals. Throughout the year, dolphins, Bryde’s whales and the occasional Orca visit – then the main actors, the Southern Right whales, come from May until the spring putting on a show just for patrons.
Hermanus Boutique Guest House is part of the Cape Country Routes, a leading group of owner-operated accommodation – more than 20 privately owned hotels, lodges and guest houses, located on the scenic routes in the Western and Eastern Cape.
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